김자인, '리드' 세계 챔피온 등극 Jain Kim Lead World Champion!

 

김자인, '리드' 부문 첫 우승

 

스포츠 클라이밍 세계월드 챔피언인 김자인은 그동안 리드부문에서 두번의 준우승에 그쳤으나

이번 스페인대회에서 처음으로 우승하는 쾌거를 이루었다.

 

Climbing World Championship 2014 Photo by © IFSC
Jain Kim winning the Lead World Championship 2014 at Gijón, Spain

 

[스포츠 클라이밍 Sports Climbing]

암벽등반이 지니고 있는 스포츠적인 요소를 독립적으로 인정한 클라이밍(Climbing)의 한 형식으로, 자연이 만들어낸 암벽과는 달리 최대한 위험 요소를 배제한 안전한 스포츠다. 또한 일정한 경기 규칙과 순위, 상금, 관중 등이 있다는 것이 자연 암벽 클라이밍과는 다른 점이라고 할 수 있대.   스포츠 클라이밍에는 3개 종목이 있다. 리드는 안전 줄을 메고 4∼6개의 인공 암벽 루트를 제한된 시간에 더 많이 올라야 하는 경기다. 볼더링은 안전 장비 없이 5m 이내의 인공 암벽에서 주어진 과제를 빨리 해결해야 하는 종목. 스피드는 안전 줄을 메고 규격화된 암벽 루트를 누가 더 빨리 오르는가로 승부를 낸다

 

[김자인,1988~ ]

 

14.09.2014 by Planetmountain

This evening at Gijón in Spain Adam Ondra and Jain Kim won the Lead World Championship 2014. Silver was won by Ramon Julien Puigblanque and Mina Markovic, bronze by Sachi Amma e Magdalena Röck.

 

Speed was won by Danyl Boldyrev and Alina Gaidamakina, while Urko Carmona Barandiaran and Christa Brelsford, Mathieu Besnard and Elodie Orbaen, Koichiro Kobayashi and Alessia Refolo, and András Szijártó won their respective categories of the Paraclimbing World Championships.

 

A fairy tale ending: Adam Ondra isn't merely Bouldering World Champion, as of this evening he is also Lead World Champion! The 21-year-old has just won the only title missing from his impressive list of wins – that includes the Lead World Cup and the Bouldering World Cup – and he has done so only a few weeks after having won the Bouldering World Championship at Munich. A double which has no equals in the history of this sport and which proves once again the absolute completeness of this extraordinary athlete.

 

Ondra shared victory with an amazing Jain Kim; the South Korean was gunning for the only title missing from her repertoire and after 21 World Cup victories, tonight the 26-year-old made the climb of her life, controlling every move to produce the only top of the finals.

 

She received a standing ovation from the roaring crowd, as did all the other athletes in the competition, starting with local matador Ramon Julien Puigblanque who seemed destined to win: he reached the same hold as Ondra, apparently completely fresh and ready to tackle the final 3 moves to the top, then his foot suddenly slipped.

 

The Spaniard, winner of two World Championship titles, won silver tonight, while Japan's Sachi Amma won bronze. In the women's event Mina Markovic powered her way upwards to win silver, while young Austrian Magdalena Röck won bronze.

A complete report will follow in due course.

Female
1 Jain Kim KOR Top
2 Mina Markovic SLO 47+
3 Magdalena Röck AUT 47+
4 Hélène Janicot FRA 44+
5 Maja Vidmar SLO 36
6 Anak Verhoeven BEL 35+
7 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 35+
8 Charlotte Durif FRA 35

Male
1 Adam Ondra CZE 45+
2 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP 45
3 Sachi Amma JPN 42+
4 Domen Skofic SLO 42+
5 Jakob Schubert AUT 40+
6 Sean Mccoll CAN 40+
7 Romain Desgranges FRA 29
8 Gautier Supper FRA 24+

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